Morocco 2008

Day 6: Oukaimden to Marrakech

Fri, 4 Apr 2008 12:38:40 +0100

Distance ridden: 78.3 km
Ride time: 2.30
Average speed: 31.1 km/h
Maximum speed: 71.4 km/h
Maximum altitude: 2650 m
Total descent: 2195 m

The last day and the easiest ride of all, over 2 km of altitude to burn over 75-odd kilometres to Marrakech.

Having slept well following a fantastic meal at Chez Juju in Ouka and swapped Andy D for Andy P, four riders rode across the plateau at the top before pointing themselves downhill, aiming for the valley floor 28 km away. Having come up the day before, it seemed odd that the ride felt longer on the way down.

The sky was clear which meant that our killer views were served chilled but it wasn’t long before we warmed up and we eventually left the mountains behind.

We reached the bottom of the Ouka road and rejoined the main road down the Ourika valley and a 35 km time trial on a very slight, very long incline all the way to Marrakech and the finish.

Day 5: Dar-Caid-Ouriki to Oukaimden

Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:23:20 +0100

Distance ridden: 40.6 km
Ride time: 4:14
Average speed: 9.8 km/h
Maximum altitude: 2650 m
Total ascent: 1820 m

Today Mike and I rode to the ski station at Oukaimden.

That short sentence hides quite a story. The van dropped us in Dar-Caid-Ouriki (altitude 830 metres) whereupon we set off up the Ourika valley for 10 km before turning left onto the 30 km drag to Oukaimden (“Ouka” to the locals). The road starts with a couple of ups and downs before settling into a final 28 km ascent to the top.

We’d started out on an unforeseen high note: over a coffee at the start I’d discovered that our final destination was 550 metres lower than expected (we’d been misinformed that the road topped-out at a breathless 3200 metres) so, without turning a pedal, we were 1/4 of the way there!

The weather was good (i.e. hot) so every metre climbed brought the prospect of cooler air. This would be my longest climb ever (my previous record being the 8 km pull on Day 2) so I was pretty concerned that I wouldn’t be able to complete the ride. I’m not exactly your average uphill whippet, but I had a pair of fully functional legs (unlike Mike who’s knee could accurately be described as “post-op”) and inspiration on my back.

So the Clydesdale (cyclist speak for heavyweight) and the out-patient headed off up the beautiful Ourika river each hoping the other would provide the drive to reach the top, which is pretty much what happened.

I should also mention our invisible “third man”: the endless encouragement we received from just about every local we passed. We were wished “bon courage” from the bottom to the top of the mountain which was really brilliant, especially in the low moments when every turn of the crank was being paid for in full.

Halfway through the ride, and one third of the way up the final pull Mustafa had set up lunch beneath a fine tree at the roadside. We two gentlemen cyclists could rest our legs and watch the traffic speed by. What the locals made of out table and chairs is anybody’s guess.

Appetites abated, we hauled ourselves back into the saddle for the 18 km to the top. We planned to make brief stops at agreed intervals, then we set about going further than planned each time. The ascent after lunch was full of highs and lows: my body would go from almost-done-in to feeling strong and full of energy. All the way I was taking on mineral-laced liquids, energy bars and gels. Those kilometre stones could be a blessing or a curse: when things were going well they came and went with welcome frequency; in more difficult periods they seemed forever hidden around the next bend!

Overall, the kilometre stones were actually a great help. Thirty stones, numbered in descending order, spelled out the ever-decreasing distance to the top. We’d agree to stop at the 15 km stone but we’d press on to the 14, the 13.

Some significant stones helped us visualise what was left of the challenge:

- 16 km (only 10 miles to go!)
- 12 km (a lap of Richmond Park!)
- 10 km (a round number!)
- 8 km (only 5 miles!)
- 5 km (the last handful!)

I must have been feeling good at 5 km because I took pictures of myself by the stone. I also started to laugh maniacally when I could no longer see the base of the valley (i.e. where we’d started) because it was too far away.

With the 5 km stone behind us it was a straightforward pull to the top. By now some of the cars that passed, having themselves driven over 25 km uphill, were slowing down to yell encouragement (yes, really!) at us. One even slowed to take pictures of the two nutters riding their bikes to Ouka.

The valley began to change once again as we sighted the first signs of Ouka itself - the pistes clearly marked against the mountainside and the glorious sight of the 1 km stone! We finally pulled into Ouka in the late afternoon where we were delighted to find a 31st stone, marking zero kilometres to Oukaimden, alt. 2650 metres!

If you’re squeamish, try not to look too closely at Mike’s knee...

Day 4: Asni and the Grand Opening

Wed, 2 Apr 2008 12:38:13 +0100

Distance ridden: 30.1 km
Ride time: 2:25
Average speed: 12.1 km/h
Maximum altitude: 1300 m
Lunches consumed: 2-4

At last, the big day. The whole point of this trip was to raise money for Education for All, a charity that seeks to provide secondary education for Moroccan girls from rural communities by building girl’s boarding houses next to secondary schools. Today would see the opening of the first of these boarding houses in Asni.

We started our day with a long but gentle climb to the col above Asni. We rolled down the other side into town and up to the new boarding house where the people were starting to gather to wait for the local district Governor who would formally open the house.

As the crowds gathered outside, the first boarders were inside trying out the new computer suite while outside the crowd grew and the last details were being attended to before the Governor’s arrival.

The Governor duly arrived and made his way, shaking hands, all the way up a long reception line. At the last minute the cyclists were herded into the line - a big moment for Andy D who, along with some pupils from Bristol Grammar School, helped lay the foundations.

Tummies in lads!

Finally to the ribbon. Judging by the pictures, several people had a hack at it before it finally gave way and the Asni Girls Boarding House was officially open.

Tales of gargantuan eating exploits to follow...

Day 3: La Bergerie to Tinmel

Tue, 1 Apr 2008 12:38:01 +0100

Distance ridden: 44.0 km
Ride time: 2:36
Average speed: 15.3 km/h
Maximum altitude: 1250 m
Lifts home: 1

Today we rode uphill from La Bergerie and over the col and back down into Ouirgane, the site of the new dam on the river Fniss. Our destination was Tinmel, the site of a 12th century mosque.

The road followed the river upstream in a series of long pulls and gentle descents. The sun was out again and it soon got pretty hot - after one long drag we all took shelter in a nice piece of shade with a view down the valley.

Of course, gentlemen rouleurs don’t have to wait too long for some proper roadside relaxation! We dropped back down to the river and the lads set up a picnic under a tree where Chris joined us.

With yesterday’s ride nagging at our legs, it was quite a relief to make Tinmel after 44 km. So after a short-ish day with a fair bit of climbing, we played our Joker: we loaded the bikes onto the van and bagged a lift back to La Bergerie.

The mosque was built in 1156 to commemorate the founder of the Almohad dynasty and it was from Tinmel that they launched their military campaigns against Marrakech 100 km away.

Day 2: Marrakech to La Bergerie via Amizmiz

Mon, 31 Mar 2008 12:37:34 +0100

Distance ridden: 62.1 km
Ride time: 4:05
Average speed: 15.3 km/h
Maximum altitude: 1030 m
Longest hill: 8 km

After Sunday’s warm-up, today saw the first tough day in the saddle. To save us the haul out of Marrakech and the traffic on the main road, Mike arranged a camionette to take the bikes about 30 km up the road back towards the dam. From there we pedalled in sunshine, climbing slowly but steadily to the town of Amizmiz in the foothills of the High Atlas.

We stopped for lunch under some trees - another snooze-inducing feast prepped by the boys - before continuing through beautiful rolling countryside. A long descent into a valley brought us to a low bridge across the river at Aouzzer, one of the few places where I had to dismount (these low bridges get flooded during the thaw). There followed a climb to a col 8 km away so everybody dug in and settled down for the grind to the top. Our reward was a view of the valley that contained La Bergerie, our destination.

Down we flew to the valley floor before one last uphill pull to the hotel which would be our base for three days. By a remarkable coincidence, we arrived at bang-on beer o’clock.

Day 1: Marrakech loop

Sun, 30 Mar 2008 12:22:35 +0100

Distance planned 40 km
Distance ridden: 93.1 km
Ride time: 4:52
Average speed: 19.1 km/h
Maximum altitude: 650 m

We assembled in Marrakech on Saturday. I met John at the airport and we were met by a driver from the Kasbah du Toubkal who took us to the Mountain Voyage office in town where we met Andy and Mike.

Bikes sorted, we decamped to the splendid Ryad Akdid on the edge of the Medina where we chilled out before a wander across the souk to the Djemaa el Fna (the main square in Marrakech). There we played avoid-the-hawker and drank just-squeezed orange juice. We strolled back to the ryad for a fine tajine and bed.

On Sunday morning we set off on what Mike promised would be “a short warm-up ride” that somehow turned into a 90 km day in the saddle. We left Marrakech and rode past the kasbah at Oumnass and on to the dam at Lalla-Takerkoust where Brahim and Mustafa prepared us a feast beside the reservoir. The two lads accompanied us all week, providing vehicular support, great food, liquid (water, fresh OJ and an endless supply of Mike’s banana milkshake) and the option of a lift home.

After lunch we took a left turn and descended through an incredible valley back to the main road and the Sunday rush hour in Marrakech.

Cycle notes:

My main concern was whether I’d made the right choice of bike for this trip. I decided to take my road bike and it turned out to be the right choice. For the most part, the mountain roads in Morocco are no worse than those in the Alps. There was the occasional short stretch that needed a push (a total of less than 100 metres all week), but a road bike was definitely the right tool for the job.

I paid easyJet an extra £16 to carry my bike which I packed in a padded bag rented for a nominal fee from my local bike shop.

Mike arranged rental bikes for John and Andy: decent-looking, low-geared hybrids by Cannondale that were no trouble all week. Going down the rental route and bringing your own pedals and saddle would be a good middle option.